Olivier Theyskens launched his self-named label at just 20 years old. Championed early by Belgian press wunderkind Kuki de Salvertes (who also spotlighted Raf Simons and Veronique Branquinho) Theyskens presented his namesake line from 1997–2002 before taking creative director roles at Rochas, Nina Ricci, and Theory.

From the outset his work was defined by drama and atmosphere. His gothic-cyber F/W 1998–99 show remains one of the era's most striking runway moments. Figure-hugging leather, elongated silhouettes, and a refined moody sensibility became his signatures. Relaunched in 2016, his namesake label carries that ethos forward, blending meticulous craftsmanship with gothic-romantic flourishes that connect his early work to the present.